Today, I bit farewell to 7474. This would be the last posting about my beloved 7474. The car has been sold.Well sometimes in life there will a point where you have to make a decision. Well, I've made mine. Since I am settling down, I don't think i can afford to maintain the car hence 7474 has to go.
It has been 3 years and I enjoy every minute I drive the car. it's a fun car to drive and superb handling. Who knows I migt bumped into my car one of these days..
So long 7474 ..
Showing posts with label TME 7474 Upgrades. Show all posts
Showing posts with label TME 7474 Upgrades. Show all posts
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Sunday, November 04, 2007
7474 Rear Bumper exhaust Heatshield
This is another simple yet functional mods. Well, unlike my CT9A brothers. They have an option to change to a carbon fiber heat shield. Unfortunately for me those parts are very-very hard to come by or non in existence. So like always I have to resort to having it custom made for me. As usual my favourite place would be GME. Ayee has come up with some brilliant ideas. Simple and functional.
As you can see the aluminium plate looks much more neater. Furthermore, it also hides the part which was melted by the heat of the exhaust.
Before: Using thermal stickers
After: Aluminium plate
As you can see the aluminium plate looks much more neater. Furthermore, it also hides the part which was melted by the heat of the exhaust.
Saturday, November 03, 2007
7474 Steel Braided Breather Hose
I have been toying with the idea to change the kind of dirty looking blue silicon hoses to the steel braided hoses type. Normally people will connect the breather hose to an oil catch tank. Since I don't have an oil catch tank. I have decided to connect it to the air-ram. The steel braided hose looks much more cleaner and way cooler than the silicon hose type. It was a quick job which took less than 20 minutes to complete it. You can see the results from the picture below.
Before: Using silicon hose
After: Steel braided hose conversion
Ayee from GME has done another good job. Next up will be the rear bumper protector.
Before: Using silicon hose
After: Steel braided hose conversion
Ayee from GME has done another good job. Next up will be the rear bumper protector.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
7474 ARC Replica Lip Spoiler
The name says it all, ARC replica lip spoiler. Since the original ARC cost a bomb. Since I am not a rich man , to have one make for me would be a logical choice. Same quality at a fraction of the price.
Before lip spoiler
The end results really looks cool. The looks wider from the front and I notice a difference in high speed cornering. More stable at high speed.
Like previous 2 upgrades, I am unable to provide any details on the damage done to my pocket since the project is not completed yet. Once I am done I will update it accordingly.
For those who don't know about the lip spoiler, basically what it does is improve the car aerodynamics. In another word better air flow around the car. At the same time it is also a great dress up kit.
Before lip spoiler
After lip spoiler
The end results really looks cool. The looks wider from the front and I notice a difference in high speed cornering. More stable at high speed.
Like previous 2 upgrades, I am unable to provide any details on the damage done to my pocket since the project is not completed yet. Once I am done I will update it accordingly.
Saturday, September 22, 2007
7474 Upper IC Piping Re-loaded
If you remember I had the upper ic piping done quite a while back. This was before I upgraded to the turbular extractor. with the stock set-up there is a hose which act as a heater that goes into the upper ic piping.
When i remove the I upgraded the extractor, the hose have to remove. So instead of re-doing the piping, what i did was just plugged the outlet. Which looks kind of ugly, it leaves me no choice but to re-do the piping.
Upper IC before
Upper IC after
As you can see from the picture it looks much more cleaner and it would definitely gives better airflow.
When i remove the I upgraded the extractor, the hose have to remove. So instead of re-doing the piping, what i did was just plugged the outlet. Which looks kind of ugly, it leaves me no choice but to re-do the piping.
Upper IC before
Upper IC after
As you can see from the picture it looks much more cleaner and it would definitely gives better airflow.
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
7474 SUNAUTO Hot Earth Ignition Blade
This is my latest mod done to 7474 engine bay. Since my plug cable cover is cracked , so this will be a good excuse for me to change the plug cable cover. Like always the questions that most of car enthusiast would ask themselves like which type or brand shall I use.
At first I wanted the HKS Kansai carbon fiber plug cable and timing belt cover. Although it looks nice but that is all it does.
My last upgrades was the clear timing belt cover and next up was the pug cable cover. I heard from my friend Hanafi who used to work in N1. He told me that Desmond of N1 installed a Splitfire ignition blade and actually gain 10hp He has a dyno chart to prove it. Since my mechanic actually brings in SUNAUTO product and it is actually a similar system and more appealing. It comes in 2 colour choises, either blue or red. Since my engine bay has a lot of blue colour. I decided to go for the blue on.
For those who does not know or never heard about this product. It actually helps eliminates negative ions circulating throughout the ignition coils and cylinder head therefore providing the lowest possible resistance enabling the ignition system to reach maximum potential. The body of the Ignition Blade is made of lightweight aluminum which hassuperior electrical conductivity. As well as the Hot Earth, ultra low impedance copper wiring uses unique design of 99.99% copper core to get the lowest impedance.
For more information you can visit the website below :
http://www.sun-auto.co.jp/english/english_html/pro_02/hot_earth_ignition.html
The results, as you can see in the picture. Now the engine bay looks more brighter compare to the dull looking engine that I had earlier.
SUNAUTO Ignition blade still in the box
Next will be to dyno the car and see whether there is any power gain or not.
Damaged:
At first I wanted the HKS Kansai carbon fiber plug cable and timing belt cover. Although it looks nice but that is all it does.
My last upgrades was the clear timing belt cover and next up was the pug cable cover. I heard from my friend Hanafi who used to work in N1. He told me that Desmond of N1 installed a Splitfire ignition blade and actually gain 10hp He has a dyno chart to prove it. Since my mechanic actually brings in SUNAUTO product and it is actually a similar system and more appealing. It comes in 2 colour choises, either blue or red. Since my engine bay has a lot of blue colour. I decided to go for the blue on.
For those who does not know or never heard about this product. It actually helps eliminates negative ions circulating throughout the ignition coils and cylinder head therefore providing the lowest possible resistance enabling the ignition system to reach maximum potential. The body of the Ignition Blade is made of lightweight aluminum which hassuperior electrical conductivity. As well as the Hot Earth, ultra low impedance copper wiring uses unique design of 99.99% copper core to get the lowest impedance.
For more information you can visit the website below :
http://www.sun-auto.co.jp/english/english_html/pro_02/hot_earth_ignition.html
The results, as you can see in the picture. Now the engine bay looks more brighter compare to the dull looking engine that I had earlier.
SUNAUTO Ignition blade still in the box
Before SUNAUTO Ignition Blade
After SUNAUTO Ignition Blade
Side View :After SUNAUTO Ignition Blade
Next will be to dyno the car and see whether there is any power gain or not.
Damaged:
1) SUNAUTO IGNITION BLADE ~ RM: 610 (Enzo Racing)
2) Installation ~ FOC (Enzo Racing)
Saturday, September 15, 2007
7474 Custom Air Box
This is one of the upgrades which is often overlooked by most people when upgrading their air filter to the open pod system. Basically the air box main function is to prevent the air filter from sucking in the hot air within the engine bay. Since we all live in a tropical climate country therefore this upgrades is a must. The answer is simple HOT AIR = LOSE OF HP.
Been wanting to do this for quite a while now. Finally had a chance to do it. Since CP9A model is consider like a dinosaurs in Malaysia and there are not many after market products available. I have no choice but to customise it.
It is a simple design but the only different is I ask the fabricator to make a small window on the top cover so that I can see the air filter. It may sound silly but the window is actually functional.
Since the air filter that I purchased is not the maintenance free type. It has to be check regularly to ensure that it is clean. Once it becomes too dirty it may not work efficiently to filter the dirt from going into the engine.
If I do not a window, I have to unfasten all the bolt in order to take peek at the air filter. So the best solution would be the window.
Air box with the viewing window
Before air-box
After air box
I had the air box made by Ah Yee(Not his real name) of GME in Sungai Buloh. I very happy with workmanship and the end product looks good. Next would be to wrap it with CF look sticker and heat shield in the inside.
Since the project is not completed, Ah Yee decided not to charge me yet. He will only bill me when the work is completed. Next up redo the upper i.c piping.
Been wanting to do this for quite a while now. Finally had a chance to do it. Since CP9A model is consider like a dinosaurs in Malaysia and there are not many after market products available. I have no choice but to customise it.
It is a simple design but the only different is I ask the fabricator to make a small window on the top cover so that I can see the air filter. It may sound silly but the window is actually functional.
Since the air filter that I purchased is not the maintenance free type. It has to be check regularly to ensure that it is clean. Once it becomes too dirty it may not work efficiently to filter the dirt from going into the engine.
If I do not a window, I have to unfasten all the bolt in order to take peek at the air filter. So the best solution would be the window.
Air box with the viewing window
Before air-box
After air box
I had the air box made by Ah Yee(Not his real name) of GME in Sungai Buloh. I very happy with workmanship and the end product looks good. Next would be to wrap it with CF look sticker and heat shield in the inside.
Since the project is not completed, Ah Yee decided not to charge me yet. He will only bill me when the work is completed. Next up redo the upper i.c piping.
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
7474 Power and Upgrades
Well, I guess it's time for me to talk about 7474's power. Quite frankly I am not really a power hungry guy. I prefer car with moderate horsepower and responsive engine. Yet reliable enough for me to drive it hard daily. You heard me drive hard. Guess that's why I bought a performance car.
Power gain vs Mods :
1). 19/01/2006
Items:
K&N air Filter, 3" down pipe with 3" piping, Custom air intake, Profec B boost controller, Tial 38mm waste gate. (Tuned by Desmond)
Max Power: 259.94 PS
Max Torque: 32.09kg-m
2). 20/01/07
Items:
Same as above except for GReddy air filter, HKS o2 housing or turbo outlet, Custom stainless upper ic piping, APEXi AVCR Boost controller and actuator instead of waste gate. (Tuned by Desmond)
Max Power: 247.73 PS
Max Torque: 30.51kg-m
3). 24/01/07
Items:
Same as 1 & 2 except for Power FC (Tuned by Desmond)
Max Power: 260.34 PS
Max Torque: 35.05kg-m
4). 13/02/07
Items:
Same as I, 2 & 3 except for tubular manifold, custom O2 housing & Tial 38mm External waste gate (Tuned by Desmond)
Max Power: 274.86 PS
Max Torque: 36kg-m
5). 15/04/07
Items:
Same as 4 except for evo 7 turbo (Tuned By Desmond)
Due to oil feeder leaks causing the turbo to starved of fuel which spoiled the turbo. Horsepower power is strong but don't be fooled by the figure. It is laggy and power only kicks in at 4000 rpm which late.
Max Power: 279.32 PS
Max Torque: 35.84kg-m
6). 25/07/07
Items:
Same as 5 except for SARD 800cc injector(Tuned by Kamal).
Initial runs I got was 281ps but due to compression loosed as my piston gave way. The final results was somewhat dissapointing. But I do see the potential in Raja Kamal's tuning. When my car was tuned by Desmond of N1 it felt sluggish and there was huge turbo lag.When Kamal Tuned my car, it was responsive and as if it's running on a different turbo.
Max Power: 273.41 PS
Max Torque: 35.96kg-m
7. 11/09/07
Items: Same as 6except for 85.5mm piston, new bearings and 1.5mm Tomei gasket(Tuned by Kamal)
After the rebuild with the new setup together with Kamal's tuning. the car felt so lighter throughout the rev range. From low rev right up to 6500rpm. However, as what Kamal pointed to me before this I need cams to push the high rev power. Currently that is what lacking in my car. This is due to the cams setup is actually meant for the TME turbo.
Max Power: 286.99 PS
Max Torque: 37.05 kg-m
That's all for now. There will be few modification's left just the minor ones hopely able to gain another 10ps. Target is 300ps. Although, the difference from the current horsepower is only 13 ps. It is not an easy target t achieve.
Damaged:
1). On the road tuning ~ RM: 200 (Pulse Racing: Raja Kamal)
2). Dyno ~RM: 150 (N1 Racing)
3). Satisfaction ~ RM: Priceless
Power gain vs Mods :
1). 19/01/2006
Items:
K&N air Filter, 3" down pipe with 3" piping, Custom air intake, Profec B boost controller, Tial 38mm waste gate. (Tuned by Desmond)
Max Power: 259.94 PS
Max Torque: 32.09kg-m
2). 20/01/07
Items:
Same as above except for GReddy air filter, HKS o2 housing or turbo outlet, Custom stainless upper ic piping, APEXi AVCR Boost controller and actuator instead of waste gate. (Tuned by Desmond)
Max Power: 247.73 PS
Max Torque: 30.51kg-m
3). 24/01/07
Items:
Same as 1 & 2 except for Power FC (Tuned by Desmond)
Max Power: 260.34 PS
Max Torque: 35.05kg-m
4). 13/02/07
Items:
Same as I, 2 & 3 except for tubular manifold, custom O2 housing & Tial 38mm External waste gate (Tuned by Desmond)
Max Power: 274.86 PS
Max Torque: 36kg-m
5). 15/04/07
Items:
Same as 4 except for evo 7 turbo (Tuned By Desmond)
Due to oil feeder leaks causing the turbo to starved of fuel which spoiled the turbo. Horsepower power is strong but don't be fooled by the figure. It is laggy and power only kicks in at 4000 rpm which late.
Max Power: 279.32 PS
Max Torque: 35.84kg-m
6). 25/07/07
Items:
Same as 5 except for SARD 800cc injector(Tuned by Kamal).
Initial runs I got was 281ps but due to compression loosed as my piston gave way. The final results was somewhat dissapointing. But I do see the potential in Raja Kamal's tuning. When my car was tuned by Desmond of N1 it felt sluggish and there was huge turbo lag.When Kamal Tuned my car, it was responsive and as if it's running on a different turbo.
Max Power: 273.41 PS
Max Torque: 35.96kg-m
7. 11/09/07
Items: Same as 6except for 85.5mm piston, new bearings and 1.5mm Tomei gasket(Tuned by Kamal)
After the rebuild with the new setup together with Kamal's tuning. the car felt so lighter throughout the rev range. From low rev right up to 6500rpm. However, as what Kamal pointed to me before this I need cams to push the high rev power. Currently that is what lacking in my car. This is due to the cams setup is actually meant for the TME turbo.
Max Power: 286.99 PS
Max Torque: 37.05 kg-m
That's all for now. There will be few modification's left just the minor ones hopely able to gain another 10ps. Target is 300ps. Although, the difference from the current horsepower is only 13 ps. It is not an easy target t achieve.
Damaged:
1). On the road tuning ~ RM: 200 (Pulse Racing: Raja Kamal)
2). Dyno ~RM: 150 (N1 Racing)
3). Satisfaction ~ RM: Priceless
Saturday, September 08, 2007
7474 Clear timing belt cover
This is one of those none performance mod or shall I say wasting money mod. Since I had the same thing on my Satria GTi last time. So I reckon it would good in the Evo as well. Since Pilot is bringing it in so I have decided to order one.
One the contrary of what people said about this item like turning yellow and cracking. I decided to gamble on it. Actually, the lone I had on my GTi only lasted for 3 months before turning yellow and eventually cracked.
Physically looking at the clear timing belt cover that Pilot brought it. I can see quite a lot of difference from the one I had in my previous car. For one it's a lot thicker and better quality as shown in the picture below.
Before installation
Then comes installation, it may looks kind of easy. Like the saying goes "Easier said than done". Well, I found out the hard way. For start you have to loosen up 4 bolts which are located at 4 corners of the timing belt cover.
The 2 top and front bottom was easy to remove due to it's location making it easier for the spanner access . But the one at rear bottom was a pain to remove. Since I am lazy to take out the strut bar. I had to do a bit of gymnastic in order to squeeze the spanner through. Well, with a bit of patience and lot of swearing. I managed to take the last bolt out.
This is how it looks after installation.
Before : Stock timing belt cover which is black and boring
After : The timing belt and pulley is clearly visible
After: Another angle of of the clear timing belt cover
Engine bay before clear timing belt cover
Engine bay after clear timing belt cover
Even though the clear timing belt cover is not as shinny or cool like the carbon ones. I think it gonna look way cooler when I install an aftermarket cam pulley coupled with a new timing belt. The TODA timing belt looks rather stock. Power timing belt would look cool since it's blue in colour.
I am happy with the overall results. Next up SUNAUTO ignition blade which will replace the plug cable cover. Then comes the custom air box. Once that done, I can conclude my engine bay mods.
Damaged:
1. Clear timing belt cover - RM: 450 (Imported by Thomas aka Pilot of MEOC)
One the contrary of what people said about this item like turning yellow and cracking. I decided to gamble on it. Actually, the lone I had on my GTi only lasted for 3 months before turning yellow and eventually cracked.
Physically looking at the clear timing belt cover that Pilot brought it. I can see quite a lot of difference from the one I had in my previous car. For one it's a lot thicker and better quality as shown in the picture below.
Before installation
Then comes installation, it may looks kind of easy. Like the saying goes "Easier said than done". Well, I found out the hard way. For start you have to loosen up 4 bolts which are located at 4 corners of the timing belt cover.
The 2 top and front bottom was easy to remove due to it's location making it easier for the spanner access . But the one at rear bottom was a pain to remove. Since I am lazy to take out the strut bar. I had to do a bit of gymnastic in order to squeeze the spanner through. Well, with a bit of patience and lot of swearing. I managed to take the last bolt out.
This is how it looks after installation.
Before : Stock timing belt cover which is black and boring
After : The timing belt and pulley is clearly visible
After: Another angle of of the clear timing belt cover
Engine bay before clear timing belt cover
Engine bay after clear timing belt cover
Even though the clear timing belt cover is not as shinny or cool like the carbon ones. I think it gonna look way cooler when I install an aftermarket cam pulley coupled with a new timing belt. The TODA timing belt looks rather stock. Power timing belt would look cool since it's blue in colour.
I am happy with the overall results. Next up SUNAUTO ignition blade which will replace the plug cable cover. Then comes the custom air box. Once that done, I can conclude my engine bay mods.
Damaged:
1. Clear timing belt cover - RM: 450 (Imported by Thomas aka Pilot of MEOC)
Wednesday, September 05, 2007
7474 Upgrades (September)
Finally, I managed to get my get some photos of my upgrades. As I mentioned on my previous posting. I've done quite a bit. Well, a lot of things happened between my last updates to date.
Let me tell you what happen. For a start after my last tuning , there was this peculiar sounds coming from my engine. Two workshops said it was my hydrolic lifters sound. To cut the story short, I went and change the hydrolic lifter, unfortunately the sound persist.
My mechanic told me the sound has got to be coming in from my engine. Something definitely must be broken. True enough after he took out the engine. Piston number 1 was cracked and number 4 well on the way too. Reason for this was engine was starved of fuel. I am just sick and tired of pointing fingers at which workshop messed up my engine. I guess you know it by now.
1. Cleaned head cylinder and valve
2. Changed valve seal, timing oil seal, cam seal, crankseal & flywheel oil seal
Upgrades parts :
1. Oversize piston (85.5mm)
Check out the latest picture of TME 7474:
Below are the things that were replaced and done:
1. Cleaned head cylinder and valve
2. Changed valve seal, timing oil seal, cam seal, crankseal & flywheel oil seal
3. Changed timing & balance belt bearings, balance sub seal and oil pump seal
4. Changed cylinder head gasket, oil pump gasket, valve cover gasket and plug seal
4. Changed cylinder head gasket, oil pump gasket, valve cover gasket and plug seal
5. Cleaned block, changed piston ring, cleaned oil sump & oil cooler
6. Changed water pump and piping oring
7. Changed steering rack cover
8. Changed silicon hoses
9. Cleaned and flush radiator
10. Changed all main bearings and conrod bearings
11. Changed engine oil and radiator coolant
12. Changed Hydrolic lifters
Upgrades parts :
1. Oversize piston (85.5mm)
2. Tomei gaskets (1.5mm)
3. Hot inazma ignition blade
4. Holt inazma pocket
I am very happy with the worksmanship of Enzo Racing. Neat and carefull work done. Since he's the owner and also the only mechanic there. He has total concentration in doing the car. I would strongly recommend this workshop.
Check out the latest picture of TME 7474:
Damaged:
1. All including worksmanship ~ RM: 10, 232 (Enzo Racing)
Wednesday, August 08, 2007
7474 Latest Updates : 06/08/07
Firstly, I would like to apologize for being kind of quite for while now. I have been very busy off late and got no time to update my blog. To tell ya quite frankly, I haven't done much upgrades either except for the last 2 weeks.
Below is the list of upgrades done and money spent so far so far:
1. Project MU SCR Pro Rotor (Front) - RM: 2100 (N1 Racing)
2. SARD 800cc injector - RM: 1500 (SS RAcing)
3. Ganador half carbon side mirror - RM: 1000 (Wangan Racing)
4. Retuned Power-FC - RM: 500 (Pulse Developement)
5. TIEN Superstreet with pillow ball mount - RM: 3800 (N1 Racing)
6. Enkei RPF1 rims - RM: 4800 (Andy the shop near N1)
7. Dual magnetic wheel lock - RM: 450 (Andy the shop near N1)
8. Ray lug nuts (Black colour) - RM: 480 (AhTy)
9. Cusco 3 points front strut bar - RM: 650 (N1 Racing)
Total money spent not inclusive of installations = RM: 15280
If you ask me that is a lot of money spent one shot. But if you compare to what the other guys spent , mine is just fractions of their spending.
Believe it of not 6 of upgrades were done only recently. Since my fiance' is having my cams I was unable to update with any photos. Once I get all the materials, I will update you all with all the photos and latest 7474 look.
Although, I have done quite a lot there are still some upgrades left on my list.
1. Carbon Hood
2. Cusco rear strut bar
3. Cusco front and rear antiroll bar
4. Engine Damper
5. Nology power cable
6. Pivot radiator fan controller
7. Apexi turbo timer
8. Project MU rear rotor
9. Toda Cam pulley
10. BC cams
11. Upgrade intercooler
12. Upgrade turbo
As you can see the list goes on. I am not really in rush to finish it up. If I do that then where is the fun of doing the upgrades. Anyway, keep a look out for my upcoming updates and photos.
Below is the list of upgrades done and money spent so far so far:
1. Project MU SCR Pro Rotor (Front) - RM: 2100 (N1 Racing)
2. SARD 800cc injector - RM: 1500 (SS RAcing)
3. Ganador half carbon side mirror - RM: 1000 (Wangan Racing)
4. Retuned Power-FC - RM: 500 (Pulse Developement)
5. TIEN Superstreet with pillow ball mount - RM: 3800 (N1 Racing)
6. Enkei RPF1 rims - RM: 4800 (Andy the shop near N1)
7. Dual magnetic wheel lock - RM: 450 (Andy the shop near N1)
8. Ray lug nuts (Black colour) - RM: 480 (AhTy)
9. Cusco 3 points front strut bar - RM: 650 (N1 Racing)
Total money spent not inclusive of installations = RM: 15280
If you ask me that is a lot of money spent one shot. But if you compare to what the other guys spent , mine is just fractions of their spending.
Believe it of not 6 of upgrades were done only recently. Since my fiance' is having my cams I was unable to update with any photos. Once I get all the materials, I will update you all with all the photos and latest 7474 look.
Although, I have done quite a lot there are still some upgrades left on my list.
1. Carbon Hood
2. Cusco rear strut bar
3. Cusco front and rear antiroll bar
4. Engine Damper
5. Nology power cable
6. Pivot radiator fan controller
7. Apexi turbo timer
8. Project MU rear rotor
9. Toda Cam pulley
10. BC cams
11. Upgrade intercooler
12. Upgrade turbo
As you can see the list goes on. I am not really in rush to finish it up. If I do that then where is the fun of doing the upgrades. Anyway, keep a look out for my upcoming updates and photos.
Monday, April 16, 2007
7474 KOYO Radiator
Finally, 7474 radiator top cracked for the second time. I remember someone warned me from using the aftermarket radiator cap. I got no one to blame but me. I guess I was using the wrong radiator cap. From my observation, I noticed that in both cases I was using an after market radiator cap with 1.3 bar pressure whereby I should be using 0.9 or at least 1.1 bar.
The radiator cap is often overlooked in common engine overheating problems. Ralliart high performance radiator cap is designed to add pressure to the cooling system and increase the boiling point like grandma's pressure cooker. A faulty radiator cap can cause your car to boil-over at a lower temperature.
Water coming out right underneath the radiator cap
Another view of the radiator
Basically, what it does is add more pressure to the cooling system. In another word, more pressure on the radiator. Unlike the aluminium ones, stock radiator is not very robust. When the pressure builds up , it has no where to go but up and something has to give way. In my case it's the top part.
At the moment, 7474 is stranded at home until I get myself a new radiator. It will be a very good excuse for an upgrade. My choise would be KOYO radiator. As if I have a lot of choise in Malaysia.
During the installation I encountered several problem. Since when I got the waste gate with the front pipe it was done with a stock radiator therefore the was a lot of space in front of the waste gate. The new radiator is much bigger and you can guess what happen next.
There is no space between the waste gate and the radiator. JFA did a good job in doing the minor adjustment needed for the clearance.
Front view
Before Koyo
After Koyo
KOYO Radiator
Got tyhe radiator from N1. Since N1 is kind of busy preparing their track car for this weekend race. So I had to install my radiator at Ex-Cool.
Damaged:
1). KOYO Radiator ~ RM:2000 (N1 Racing) Normal price : 2400
2). Installation ~ RM: 80
3). Re-adjust wasgate position ~ RM: 500 (JFA)
The radiator cap is often overlooked in common engine overheating problems. Ralliart high performance radiator cap is designed to add pressure to the cooling system and increase the boiling point like grandma's pressure cooker. A faulty radiator cap can cause your car to boil-over at a lower temperature.
Water coming out right underneath the radiator cap
Another view of the radiator
Basically, what it does is add more pressure to the cooling system. In another word, more pressure on the radiator. Unlike the aluminium ones, stock radiator is not very robust. When the pressure builds up , it has no where to go but up and something has to give way. In my case it's the top part.
At the moment, 7474 is stranded at home until I get myself a new radiator. It will be a very good excuse for an upgrade. My choise would be KOYO radiator. As if I have a lot of choise in Malaysia.
During the installation I encountered several problem. Since when I got the waste gate with the front pipe it was done with a stock radiator therefore the was a lot of space in front of the waste gate. The new radiator is much bigger and you can guess what happen next.
There is no space between the waste gate and the radiator. JFA did a good job in doing the minor adjustment needed for the clearance.
Front view
Before Koyo
After Koyo
KOYO Radiator
Got tyhe radiator from N1. Since N1 is kind of busy preparing their track car for this weekend race. So I had to install my radiator at Ex-Cool.
Damaged:
1). KOYO Radiator ~ RM:2000 (N1 Racing) Normal price : 2400
2). Installation ~ RM: 80
3). Re-adjust wasgate position ~ RM: 500 (JFA)
Thursday, April 05, 2007
7474 Billion Radiator Fan
Finally, my stock radiator fan gave way. One fine day , it just died without any warning or tell tale sign that it is dying. I didn't know that the fan died as there was no indication whatsoever. Lucky for me I got the Apexi Power FC Commander, since I have no other gauges in my car. The PFC commander is the only monitoring device I have.
I realised something was wrong when my water temp suddenly goes up when I am idling or going through slow moving traffic. I checked the radiator water level, it seems fine. No leaking detected. The bubble tank seems fine as well.
So it's either my water pump or radiator fan. When I got back home , I heard the front fan kicks in. So I immediately open my hood and my pull radiator fan didn't move at all.
This would be a good time for me to upgrade my radiator fan and my choice would be Billion Radiator fan.
Here are some write up taken from N1 Racing website.
Billion High Performance Fan 14" Pull Type (2670 CFM)
ARE YOU HEATING UP IN TRAFFIC OR BOILING OVER IN LINE WAITING TO GET INTO THE CAR SHOW? THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM CAUSED BY POOR AIR CIRCULATION THROUGH THE RADIATOR. THE OLD-TIME MECHANICAL ENGINE FANS ARE BECOMING A THING OF THE PAST BECAUSE THEY JUST CANNOT KEEP UP EVEN IF YOU HAVE THE BEST RADIATOR. ASIDE FROM ROBBING YOU OF GAS MILEAGE AND HORSEPOWER, THEY ARE ALSO DANGEROUS TO WORK AROUND. WHY ARE ELECTRIC FANS BETTER? WE FEEL THEY ARE BETTER BECAUSE OF TWO REASONS, IN COMPARISON WHEN AT IDLE A MECHANICAL FAN WILL BE TURNING APPROXIMATELY THE SAME RPM AS YOUR ENGINE (ABOUT 600RPM) MOVING ABOUT 600 CFM, AN ELECTRIC FAN ON THE OTHER HAND, AT IDLE WILL BE TURNING ABOUT TEN TIMES THAT MOVING APPROXIMATELY 2360CFM. THE OTHER MAIN REASON IS A ENGINE FAN WILL BE TURNING ALL THE TIME, EVEN AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS WHEN YOU DO NOT NEED IT. ONCE AGAIN THE ELECTRIC FAN , WHEN INSTALLED PROPERLY, WILL SHUT OFF AT DESIRED TEMPERATURES WHEN CONTROLLED BY A THERMOSTAT. WHY BUY BILLION FAN? ALL BILLION FANS ARE THE HIGHEST QUALITY AVAILABLE, AS AN O.E.M. FAN MANUFACTURE THE RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT ARE PASSED DOWN TO THE AFTER MARKET CONSUMER RESULTING IN A COMPLETELY BALANCED ASSEMBLY CONSTRUCTED OF FIBERGLASS IMPREGNATED NYLON TO GUARD AGAINST DISTORTION OR BREAKAGE.
I also found out from the mechanic that Evo has 2 radiator fan. Both would kicks in at 95 degrees Celsius.
The 2 fans are Pull (The fan inside the engine bay) and Push (The located outside, it's visible from the front of the car). The results can bee seen immediately. When the temperature hits 95 degrees and the fan kicks in, less than 30 seconds the temperature drops to 85 degrees. With this kind of results , it safe to say it's a worth it .
This how my stock radiator fan looks like.
The fan is about 6 years old and that is a very long time. I guess it was time for it to go.
Below is the results after installation.
Next upgrades would be radiator fan controller. This device allows me to adjust the setting for the radiator fan to kicks in. This would allow the engine to be cooler.
Damaged:
1). Billion Radiator fan ~ RM:750 (N1 Racing) Normal price : 800
2). Installation ~ RM: 80 (N1 Racing)
I realised something was wrong when my water temp suddenly goes up when I am idling or going through slow moving traffic. I checked the radiator water level, it seems fine. No leaking detected. The bubble tank seems fine as well.
So it's either my water pump or radiator fan. When I got back home , I heard the front fan kicks in. So I immediately open my hood and my pull radiator fan didn't move at all.
This would be a good time for me to upgrade my radiator fan and my choice would be Billion Radiator fan.
Here are some write up taken from N1 Racing website.
Billion High Performance Fan 14" Pull Type (2670 CFM)
ARE YOU HEATING UP IN TRAFFIC OR BOILING OVER IN LINE WAITING TO GET INTO THE CAR SHOW? THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM CAUSED BY POOR AIR CIRCULATION THROUGH THE RADIATOR. THE OLD-TIME MECHANICAL ENGINE FANS ARE BECOMING A THING OF THE PAST BECAUSE THEY JUST CANNOT KEEP UP EVEN IF YOU HAVE THE BEST RADIATOR. ASIDE FROM ROBBING YOU OF GAS MILEAGE AND HORSEPOWER, THEY ARE ALSO DANGEROUS TO WORK AROUND. WHY ARE ELECTRIC FANS BETTER? WE FEEL THEY ARE BETTER BECAUSE OF TWO REASONS, IN COMPARISON WHEN AT IDLE A MECHANICAL FAN WILL BE TURNING APPROXIMATELY THE SAME RPM AS YOUR ENGINE (ABOUT 600RPM) MOVING ABOUT 600 CFM, AN ELECTRIC FAN ON THE OTHER HAND, AT IDLE WILL BE TURNING ABOUT TEN TIMES THAT MOVING APPROXIMATELY 2360CFM. THE OTHER MAIN REASON IS A ENGINE FAN WILL BE TURNING ALL THE TIME, EVEN AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS WHEN YOU DO NOT NEED IT. ONCE AGAIN THE ELECTRIC FAN , WHEN INSTALLED PROPERLY, WILL SHUT OFF AT DESIRED TEMPERATURES WHEN CONTROLLED BY A THERMOSTAT. WHY BUY BILLION FAN? ALL BILLION FANS ARE THE HIGHEST QUALITY AVAILABLE, AS AN O.E.M. FAN MANUFACTURE THE RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT ARE PASSED DOWN TO THE AFTER MARKET CONSUMER RESULTING IN A COMPLETELY BALANCED ASSEMBLY CONSTRUCTED OF FIBERGLASS IMPREGNATED NYLON TO GUARD AGAINST DISTORTION OR BREAKAGE.
I also found out from the mechanic that Evo has 2 radiator fan. Both would kicks in at 95 degrees Celsius.
The 2 fans are Pull (The fan inside the engine bay) and Push (The located outside, it's visible from the front of the car). The results can bee seen immediately. When the temperature hits 95 degrees and the fan kicks in, less than 30 seconds the temperature drops to 85 degrees. With this kind of results , it safe to say it's a worth it .
This how my stock radiator fan looks like.
The fan is about 6 years old and that is a very long time. I guess it was time for it to go.
Below is the results after installation.
Next upgrades would be radiator fan controller. This device allows me to adjust the setting for the radiator fan to kicks in. This would allow the engine to be cooler.
Damaged:
1). Billion Radiator fan ~ RM:750 (N1 Racing) Normal price : 800
2). Installation ~ RM: 80 (N1 Racing)
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
Correct Connecting Hose Applications
This what happened to me on the 13 March 2007. I was on my to work as I came out from the junction. My car suddenly jerk as my boost kicks in, after that the car sounded like it was chocking and there was a huge amount of power lost. It was so severe that I though my engine blew up or something must have been broken from the engine.
The first thing I noticed was at 5800 rpm, my boost readings was only 0.85bar. So something must be definitely wrong. It was scary indeed. Lucky for me, it happens quite close to my house. So I limp back home slowly, park my car in my garage and called a cab. Since I got to go to work, I guess that's the only thing to do.
After calling some of my more experience friends. All of them gave me the similar remarks "Nothing to worry about, it's probably one of you inter cooler hoses come undone". True enough, after a thorough inspection. I noticed the upper inter cooler hoses clamp was dangling at the bottom of the lower inter cooler piping.
Believe or not this is quite common amongst the Evo or shall I say Turbo community which I find it rather strange. I mean, we are talking about stock car that was only bosst at 1.3bar not the monster ones that boosting like at 1.8bar. The fact remains, does the shop around here really knows which hoses to use.
After doing doing my research, I found that when it comes to connecting hoses. Less is more. In another word try to have the least number of connecting hoses due to the engine movements that would likely causing the hose to come undone. Another thing that worth considering is using the 'HUMP' connecting hose instead of the standard ones.
This kind of hose best suited for cars using standard engine mounting, due to the engine movements. Unless you are using solid mounting which restrict the engine movements.
For me solid mounting is definitely out of the questions. I guess the logical thing for me to do would be changing the standard connecting to hoses to the hump one.
The first thing I noticed was at 5800 rpm, my boost readings was only 0.85bar. So something must be definitely wrong. It was scary indeed. Lucky for me, it happens quite close to my house. So I limp back home slowly, park my car in my garage and called a cab. Since I got to go to work, I guess that's the only thing to do.
After calling some of my more experience friends. All of them gave me the similar remarks "Nothing to worry about, it's probably one of you inter cooler hoses come undone". True enough, after a thorough inspection. I noticed the upper inter cooler hoses clamp was dangling at the bottom of the lower inter cooler piping.
Believe or not this is quite common amongst the Evo or shall I say Turbo community which I find it rather strange. I mean, we are talking about stock car that was only bosst at 1.3bar not the monster ones that boosting like at 1.8bar. The fact remains, does the shop around here really knows which hoses to use.
After doing doing my research, I found that when it comes to connecting hoses. Less is more. In another word try to have the least number of connecting hoses due to the engine movements that would likely causing the hose to come undone. Another thing that worth considering is using the 'HUMP' connecting hose instead of the standard ones.
This kind of hose best suited for cars using standard engine mounting, due to the engine movements. Unless you are using solid mounting which restrict the engine movements.
For me solid mounting is definitely out of the questions. I guess the logical thing for me to do would be changing the standard connecting to hoses to the hump one.
Tuesday, March 06, 2007
7474 2007 Wish List
Sorry for my long absent. Been quite busy with my work late that I find it hard to find time to actually sit down and update my blog. Well, 2006 was quite a hard year for me and quietly it's already March. So many things to do and so little time to do it. Not to mentioned so little RM as well. Unless you some rich man's son.. Hahahahaha
I cannot spend so much money this year either, I need that cash to get married man!! That ain't cheap my friend. It's like a down payment to buy another Evo. One thing for sure 2007 would be a very quite year for 7474. After July all the modding would have to stop and it's time to start saving.
Anyway, let me just go through some of my car mods wish list for 2007 budget. It ain't much only the necessity.
1). Pivot Radiator Fan Controller ~ RM: 500
2). SARD/Power 800cc Injector ~ RM: 2450
3). Nology Power Cable ~ RM:700
4). Billion Radiator Fan ~ RM: 1200
It's not much but it cost quite a lot. I guess the rest I would have to put it on hold after my marriage. I guess that's far more important than anything else.
I cannot spend so much money this year either, I need that cash to get married man!! That ain't cheap my friend. It's like a down payment to buy another Evo. One thing for sure 2007 would be a very quite year for 7474. After July all the modding would have to stop and it's time to start saving.
Anyway, let me just go through some of my car mods wish list for 2007 budget. It ain't much only the necessity.
1). Pivot Radiator Fan Controller ~ RM: 500
2). SARD/Power 800cc Injector ~ RM: 2450
3). Nology Power Cable ~ RM:700
4). Billion Radiator Fan ~ RM: 1200
It's not much but it cost quite a lot. I guess the rest I would have to put it on hold after my marriage. I guess that's far more important than anything else.
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
7474 HKS replica tubular manifold & TIAL wastegate
Another performance upgrades for 7474. Since my actuator was giving me some problem. I guess it's time to change it to an external waste gate. I was in luck as one of my friend Eryn had change to a brand new APEXi Isamu turbo kit, so he won't be needing his tubular manifold and waste gate. It was like a package deal for both. So I took it.
Been reading quite a lot of review whereby tubular manifold would definitely gives the turbo car some sort of power gain. The question was how much horsepower gain? Again I've chosen N1 to do the installation and tuning. The installation process didn't go smoothly though.
Firstly, it took them like more than 6 hours to complete the job. On top of that they screwed up my turbine. Yes!! my TME Turbine. I had to leave the car overnight for them to get it fixed. Lucky for me that the workshop are willing to bare the charger since it wasn't my doing anyway.
Engine bay before
Engine bay : After (With Tubular manifold & waste gate)
Tubular manifold & waste gate close up
Power gain vs Mods :
1). 19/01/2006
Items:
K&N air Filter, 3" down pipe with 3" piping, Custom air intake, Profec B boost controller, Tial 38mm waste gate.
Max Power: 259.94 PS
Max Torque: 32.09kg-m
2). 20/01/07
Items:
Same as above except for GReddy air filter, HKS o2 housing or turbo outlet, Custom stainless upper ic piping, APEXi AVCR Boost controller and actuator instead of waste gate.
Max Power: 247.73 PS
Max Torque: 30.51kg-m
3). 24/01/07
Items:
Same as 1 & 2 except for Power FC
Max Power: 260.34 PS
Max Torque: 35.05kg-m
4). 13/02/07
Items:
Same as I, 2 & 3 except for tubular manifold, custom O2 housing & Tial 38mm External waste gate
Max Power: 274.86 PS
Max Torque: 36kg-m
The power total power gain was about 15 ps and 1kg-m of torque. Quite an impressive gain, it seems the power gain is similar to what the guys in D-Sport got when they did a similar upgrades with the same ECU. I guess the tuning was the one that gives the power.
Damage:
1). Installation & Dyto Tune : RM: 650 (N1 RAcing)
2). HKS silicon hoses : RM: 90 (for Waste gate)
Been reading quite a lot of review whereby tubular manifold would definitely gives the turbo car some sort of power gain. The question was how much horsepower gain? Again I've chosen N1 to do the installation and tuning. The installation process didn't go smoothly though.
Firstly, it took them like more than 6 hours to complete the job. On top of that they screwed up my turbine. Yes!! my TME Turbine. I had to leave the car overnight for them to get it fixed. Lucky for me that the workshop are willing to bare the charger since it wasn't my doing anyway.
Engine bay before
Engine bay : After (With Tubular manifold & waste gate)
Tubular manifold & waste gate close up
Power gain vs Mods :
1). 19/01/2006
Items:
K&N air Filter, 3" down pipe with 3" piping, Custom air intake, Profec B boost controller, Tial 38mm waste gate.
Max Power: 259.94 PS
Max Torque: 32.09kg-m
2). 20/01/07
Items:
Same as above except for GReddy air filter, HKS o2 housing or turbo outlet, Custom stainless upper ic piping, APEXi AVCR Boost controller and actuator instead of waste gate.
Max Power: 247.73 PS
Max Torque: 30.51kg-m
3). 24/01/07
Items:
Same as 1 & 2 except for Power FC
Max Power: 260.34 PS
Max Torque: 35.05kg-m
4). 13/02/07
Items:
Same as I, 2 & 3 except for tubular manifold, custom O2 housing & Tial 38mm External waste gate
Max Power: 274.86 PS
Max Torque: 36kg-m
The power total power gain was about 15 ps and 1kg-m of torque. Quite an impressive gain, it seems the power gain is similar to what the guys in D-Sport got when they did a similar upgrades with the same ECU. I guess the tuning was the one that gives the power.
Damage:
1). Installation & Dyto Tune : RM: 650 (N1 RAcing)
2). HKS silicon hoses : RM: 90 (for Waste gate)
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
7474 APEXi Power FC
After installing the AVCR, the setting was done on the dyno. During the installation we learnt that the car is actually running lean and the whole set-up went bonkus. Partly due to the HKS O2 housing or turbo outlet that I've install. Since there's more air coming in but no changes made to the fuelling, therefore it causes the car to starve of fuel.
Below is the product description taken from N1 Racing website :
Apexi Power FC (Evo 6) The Power FC proudly stands as A'PEXi's answer to the constraints and limitations associated with most piggy-back style fuel controllers. The Power FC is a complete, stand alone, total engine management system capable of handling virtually anything thrown in its path. From multiple point fuel and ignition control to VTEC engagement (Honda applications) and boost settings, the Power FC is capable of accommodating even the most demanding performance enthusiasts. Currently available exclusively through Power Excel Shops the Power FC replaces the factory ECU and controls all vital engine parameters (Off road use only, no OBD-II). Installation is as easy as replacing the factory ECU. (Some minor rewiring is required on select vehicles). The factory engine harness does not need to be replaced and all critical accessories such as air conditioning continue to function. By using the optional FC COMMANDER, the user can adjust and modify a wide range of settings. Since there is no need to upgrade ROM chips or modify ECU's, the factory ECU can be kept by the original user. The Power FC operates off of three Main Menus. These menus are: Monitor, Setting, and ETC. In Monitor Mode, the Commander can display up to 10 parameters of data in real time. Monitor Mode can display: Engine RPM Ignition Timing Vehicle Speed Air Flow Voltage (Pressure Sensor Voltage) Injector Duty Cycle Boost Knocking Level Battery Voltage Intake Air Temp Water Temp In addition, there are 4 display patterns allowing 1-8 parameters to be shown on screen simultaneously. The data displays in numerical real time values with the option of a real time 10 second graph display. Peak Hold values and Display Hold functions only require the touch of a button. The Map Trace Mode allows Ghost Map Tracing of the Fuel Correction and Ignition Timing maps. This allows the user to visually see what point of the map is being used in real time. The Ghost Map Trace function leaves markers on the used portions of the map for easy reference. Setting Mode allows full access to the 20x20 ignition timing and fuel correction maps. The user can adjust any portion of this map in 5x5 sections. Air flow correction values can be entered for vehicles upgrading air flow meters. Injector pulse correction menu is used when upgrading injectors. The Acceleration Enrichment Correction function improves response under hard and sudden acceleration. The Cranking Fuel Injection menu corrects the amount of fuel delivered when the engine is being cranked, or when the water temperature is cold. A separate Water Temp menu allows fuel correction according to water temperature. The RPM menu allows rev limiter settings and idle RPM levels. Access menus also vary according to specific applications. Rotary engine Power FC's accommodate leading and trailing ignition maps. Honda engines Power FC's allow for VTEC control. Complete boost control is possible by using the optional Boost Control Kit. Changing data is easy: just access the desired point on the map or data, and push the FC COMMANDER keys in the appropriate direction. The ETC Menu contains utility parameters such as: version information, LCD screen brightness, and initialization of all data. In addition, the ETC Mode allows the user to monitor all factory sensors through one screen. This screen can tell the user if any sensor is in use or malfunctioning. The Power FC also comes preprogrammed with several base maps. (Currently with Japan Domestic Market Vehicle Maps, minor initial tuning may be required. Please contact your authorized Power Excel shop for more information.) This makes the initial tuning process much quicker. As with all other fuel controllers, the POWER FC should be tuned on a dynomometer by a trained professional. A high grade air/ fuel ratio monitor is also recommended during tuning to ensure best results. FC COMMANDER (part of Power FC) The FC COMMANDER is a hand held controller designed to allow access to the vital parameters within the Power FC. The unit allows a wide range of data modification through its large back lit LCD display. The unit has been designed so that one finger can control a wide array of data. Once connected, the A'PEXi logo will appear in the screen taking the user to the Main Menu. From here, the user can access the three Main Menus (Monitor, Setting, Etc.) The FC COMMANDER "communicates" with the Power FC control unit thereby creating one of the first interactive user friendly fuel management systems. BOOST CONTROL KIT (part of Power FC) The Boost Control Kit is an optional kit designed to control boost through the Power FC. Simple connection to the Power FC allows the user to access a full self-learning boost controller. The Power FC allows up to 4 different boost presets for any stage of driving. The high grade solenoid valve is the same one used in our Super AVC-R boost controller. As with the S-AVCR, the Boost control kit allows increased boost response and boost stability at high RPM's. CONCEPT: A'PEX's answer to the constraints and limitations associated with most piggy-back style fuel controllers. CHARACTERISTICS: Replaces the factory ECU and controls all engine parameters.
As I mentioned before this my car was runing lean and there's a power loss as well. Based on my previous dyno results before the AVCR , when I was using Profec B 2 boost controller an d boosting at 1.2 bar. The power is higher then. Below are the power comparison:
1). 19/01/2006
Items: K&N air Filter, 3" down pipe with 3" piping, Custom air intake, Profec B boost controller, Tial 38mm waste gate.
Max Power: 259.94 PS
Max Torque: 32.09kg-m
2). 20/01/07
Items: Same as above except for GReddy air filter, HKS o2 housing or turbo outlet, Custom stainless upper ic piping, APEXi AVCR Boost controller and actuator instead of wastegate.
Max Power: 247.73 PS
Max Torque: 30.51kg-m
3). 24/01/07
Items: Same as 1 & 2 except for Power FC
Max Power: 260.34 PS
Max Torque: 35.05kg-m
As you can see the power is back to how it used to be and a significant increase in torque. Unfortunately, the max power could not be increased further. This was caused by the erratic boost problem, especially at higher RPM. This was due to boost leak at the actuator at higher boost preventing any power increase. The solution would be to get myself a wastegate. Now that's another story.
Anyway, what we can say is that by changing to a standalone ECU or chip reflash would definitely adds more power and the changes can be felt immidiately. What type of ECU is the best for your car depends on how deep is your pocket. Unfortunately for me, this is the only ECU I can afford with my current budget and I'm happy with results.
Damaged :
1). Power FC + Commander ~ Rm: 3200 (N1 Racing)
2). Installation + tuning ~ FOC ( N1 Racing)
Note: Tuner ~ Desmond of N1 racing
This what we call "Lean". Bad news as there's a risk of an engine blow up. I guess the new ECU is inevitable. After considering my budget and also a good ECU. I decided to go for APEXi Power FC. The ECU module comes complete with a display unit known as Power FC commander. The neat part about this product is the commander it gives quite a lot of informations such injector duty cycle, water temp, ignition degrees. These information is vital and need to be kept checked from time to time.
It's also user friendly. You don't have to change or do any wiring Just plug and play. Neat huh? The only problem you may encounter is the tuning part. As for me, I know nuts about tuning, I leave this to my tuner to ensure my car is tuned properly and able to run smoothly. The tuning requires a person with knowledge in tuning and has a dyno facilities.
In my case, I've chosen Desmond from N1 Racing. He's the same person that tune my Haltech when I had my Honda. The picture below shows how the Power FC and commander unit looks like :
Below is the product description taken from N1 Racing website :
Apexi Power FC (Evo 6) The Power FC proudly stands as A'PEXi's answer to the constraints and limitations associated with most piggy-back style fuel controllers. The Power FC is a complete, stand alone, total engine management system capable of handling virtually anything thrown in its path. From multiple point fuel and ignition control to VTEC engagement (Honda applications) and boost settings, the Power FC is capable of accommodating even the most demanding performance enthusiasts. Currently available exclusively through Power Excel Shops the Power FC replaces the factory ECU and controls all vital engine parameters (Off road use only, no OBD-II). Installation is as easy as replacing the factory ECU. (Some minor rewiring is required on select vehicles). The factory engine harness does not need to be replaced and all critical accessories such as air conditioning continue to function. By using the optional FC COMMANDER, the user can adjust and modify a wide range of settings. Since there is no need to upgrade ROM chips or modify ECU's, the factory ECU can be kept by the original user. The Power FC operates off of three Main Menus. These menus are: Monitor, Setting, and ETC. In Monitor Mode, the Commander can display up to 10 parameters of data in real time. Monitor Mode can display: Engine RPM Ignition Timing Vehicle Speed Air Flow Voltage (Pressure Sensor Voltage) Injector Duty Cycle Boost Knocking Level Battery Voltage Intake Air Temp Water Temp In addition, there are 4 display patterns allowing 1-8 parameters to be shown on screen simultaneously. The data displays in numerical real time values with the option of a real time 10 second graph display. Peak Hold values and Display Hold functions only require the touch of a button. The Map Trace Mode allows Ghost Map Tracing of the Fuel Correction and Ignition Timing maps. This allows the user to visually see what point of the map is being used in real time. The Ghost Map Trace function leaves markers on the used portions of the map for easy reference. Setting Mode allows full access to the 20x20 ignition timing and fuel correction maps. The user can adjust any portion of this map in 5x5 sections. Air flow correction values can be entered for vehicles upgrading air flow meters. Injector pulse correction menu is used when upgrading injectors. The Acceleration Enrichment Correction function improves response under hard and sudden acceleration. The Cranking Fuel Injection menu corrects the amount of fuel delivered when the engine is being cranked, or when the water temperature is cold. A separate Water Temp menu allows fuel correction according to water temperature. The RPM menu allows rev limiter settings and idle RPM levels. Access menus also vary according to specific applications. Rotary engine Power FC's accommodate leading and trailing ignition maps. Honda engines Power FC's allow for VTEC control. Complete boost control is possible by using the optional Boost Control Kit. Changing data is easy: just access the desired point on the map or data, and push the FC COMMANDER keys in the appropriate direction. The ETC Menu contains utility parameters such as: version information, LCD screen brightness, and initialization of all data. In addition, the ETC Mode allows the user to monitor all factory sensors through one screen. This screen can tell the user if any sensor is in use or malfunctioning. The Power FC also comes preprogrammed with several base maps. (Currently with Japan Domestic Market Vehicle Maps, minor initial tuning may be required. Please contact your authorized Power Excel shop for more information.) This makes the initial tuning process much quicker. As with all other fuel controllers, the POWER FC should be tuned on a dynomometer by a trained professional. A high grade air/ fuel ratio monitor is also recommended during tuning to ensure best results. FC COMMANDER (part of Power FC) The FC COMMANDER is a hand held controller designed to allow access to the vital parameters within the Power FC. The unit allows a wide range of data modification through its large back lit LCD display. The unit has been designed so that one finger can control a wide array of data. Once connected, the A'PEXi logo will appear in the screen taking the user to the Main Menu. From here, the user can access the three Main Menus (Monitor, Setting, Etc.) The FC COMMANDER "communicates" with the Power FC control unit thereby creating one of the first interactive user friendly fuel management systems. BOOST CONTROL KIT (part of Power FC) The Boost Control Kit is an optional kit designed to control boost through the Power FC. Simple connection to the Power FC allows the user to access a full self-learning boost controller. The Power FC allows up to 4 different boost presets for any stage of driving. The high grade solenoid valve is the same one used in our Super AVC-R boost controller. As with the S-AVCR, the Boost control kit allows increased boost response and boost stability at high RPM's. CONCEPT: A'PEX's answer to the constraints and limitations associated with most piggy-back style fuel controllers. CHARACTERISTICS: Replaces the factory ECU and controls all engine parameters.
As I mentioned before this my car was runing lean and there's a power loss as well. Based on my previous dyno results before the AVCR , when I was using Profec B 2 boost controller an d boosting at 1.2 bar. The power is higher then. Below are the power comparison:
1). 19/01/2006
Items: K&N air Filter, 3" down pipe with 3" piping, Custom air intake, Profec B boost controller, Tial 38mm waste gate.
Max Power: 259.94 PS
Max Torque: 32.09kg-m
2). 20/01/07
Items: Same as above except for GReddy air filter, HKS o2 housing or turbo outlet, Custom stainless upper ic piping, APEXi AVCR Boost controller and actuator instead of wastegate.
Max Power: 247.73 PS
Max Torque: 30.51kg-m
3). 24/01/07
Items: Same as 1 & 2 except for Power FC
Max Power: 260.34 PS
Max Torque: 35.05kg-m
As you can see the power is back to how it used to be and a significant increase in torque. Unfortunately, the max power could not be increased further. This was caused by the erratic boost problem, especially at higher RPM. This was due to boost leak at the actuator at higher boost preventing any power increase. The solution would be to get myself a wastegate. Now that's another story.
Anyway, what we can say is that by changing to a standalone ECU or chip reflash would definitely adds more power and the changes can be felt immidiately. What type of ECU is the best for your car depends on how deep is your pocket. Unfortunately for me, this is the only ECU I can afford with my current budget and I'm happy with results.
Damaged :
1). Power FC + Commander ~ Rm: 3200 (N1 Racing)
2). Installation + tuning ~ FOC ( N1 Racing)
Note: Tuner ~ Desmond of N1 racing
Monday, January 22, 2007
7474 APEXi AVCR
Before I start talking about my next upgrades Let me just tell you what boost controller is all about and what it actually does. Well,I got this off the net.
Apexi AVCR Boost Controller ( Black Limited )
The AVC-R is a digital boost controller that allows the user to modify the boost pressure level on turbocharged vehicles. While there are many boost controllers on the market, none of the other includes as many features as the AVC-R, period. Despite all of the complex features included the unit, the AVC-R is flexible enough to be used by beginners. Entry level users need only to input a desired boost level and the AVC-R's trademark self learning CPU processor does the rest. The AVC-R also uses a highly durable, fast action solenoid valve to physically control the boost . The valve movement (Boost Duty Cycle) can also be modified. Raising the duty cycle increases boost response, while lowering the duty cycle will slow boost response. This feature allows boost response adjustment for varying turbo sizes. Since larger turbos take longer to spool up ( bad low end response) the duty cycle should be raised under lower RPM's for better response. The opposite should be done for smaller turbo's ( excellent low - mid range response, but limited top end power.) A'PEXi engineers address this issue by including extra menus for RPM based boost control. Drag racers may want to utilize the Gear based boost control function. Aside from the basic functions above, the AVC-R has a Start Duty Setting (allows the boost to momentarily overshoot according to gear). The AVC-R also includes a Scramble Boost function which allows the user to momentarily raise or lower the boost level at the push of a button. Raising the boost level is commonly used when an extra burst of power is needed (ex. entering a freeway). This feature can also be used in drag racing. The driver can set the main boost level to a low setting for maximum traction then, once full traction is achieved, the scramble boost can allow the vehicle to boost full power. The AVC-R displays data in three different modes: Numerical, Analog, and Graph. Numerical Mode allows the user to monitor up to four different parameters in numbers and also shows peak hold values on demand. The Analog Mode displays up to two values in an easy to read meter style display. Peak Hold is also included in this function. The Graph Mode offers real time graph plotting with a Ghost map trace feature built in. The graph can replay movement up to 60 seconds. CONCEPT: Advanced electronic boost controller CHARACTERISTICS: Highly flexible boost control with new functions.
N1 mechanic during the installation
Boost controller solenoid
Close up of the selenoid
Close up of the AVCR sensor
Close of the AVCR
AVCR is mounted in-front of the meter cluster
Another View of the AVCR
My choice of boost controller would be AVCR. I guess the write up explains it all. Since my car was having quite a lot of boost cut due to the manual boost controller couldn't sustain the access manifold pressure and causing the surge of boost. In another word it's not very good news. I guess the boost controller upgrades is inevitable.
Damage:
1). APEXi AVCR boost controller ~ RM:1450 (SS Racing)
2). Installation + Dyno tune ~RM: 250 (N1 Racing)
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