7474 KOYO Radiator

Finally, 7474 radiator top cracked for the second time. I remember someone warned me from using the aftermarket radiator cap. I got no one to blame but me. I guess I was using the wrong radiator cap. From my observation, I noticed that in both cases I was using an after market radiator cap with 1.3 bar pressure whereby I should be using 0.9 or at least 1.1 bar.

The radiator cap is often overlooked in common engine overheating problems. Ralliart high performance radiator cap is designed to add pressure to the cooling system and increase the boiling point like grandma's pressure cooker. A faulty radiator cap can cause your car to boil-over at a lower temperature.


Water coming out right underneath the radiator cap


Another view of the radiator

Basically, what it does is add more pressure to the cooling system. In another word, more pressure on the radiator. Unlike the aluminium ones, stock radiator is not very robust. When the pressure builds up , it has no where to go but up and something has to give way. In my case it's the top part.

At the moment, 7474 is stranded at home until I get myself a new radiator. It will be a very good excuse for an upgrade. My choise would be KOYO radiator. As if I have a lot of choise in Malaysia.











During the installation I encountered several problem. Since when I got the waste gate with the front pipe it was done with a stock radiator therefore the was a lot of space in front of the waste gate. The new radiator is much bigger and you can guess what happen next.

There is no space between the waste gate and the radiator. JFA did a good job in doing the minor adjustment needed for the clearance.


Front view



Before Koyo



After Koyo


KOYO Radiator

Got tyhe radiator from N1. Since N1 is kind of busy preparing their track car for this weekend race. So I had to install my radiator at Ex-Cool.


Damaged:

1). KOYO Radiator ~ RM:2000 (N1 Racing) Normal price : 2400
2). Installation ~ RM: 80
3). Re-adjust wasgate position ~ RM: 500 (JFA)

7474 Billion Radiator Fan

Finally, my stock radiator fan gave way. One fine day , it just died without any warning or tell tale sign that it is dying. I didn't know that the fan died as there was no indication whatsoever. Lucky for me I got the Apexi Power FC Commander, since I have no other gauges in my car. The PFC commander is the only monitoring device I have.

I realised something was wrong when my water temp suddenly goes up when I am idling or going through slow moving traffic. I checked the radiator water level, it seems fine. No leaking detected. The bubble tank seems fine as well.

So it's either my water pump or radiator fan. When I got back home , I heard the front fan kicks in. So I immediately open my hood and my pull radiator fan didn't move at all.

This would be a good time for me to upgrade my radiator fan and my choice would be Billion Radiator fan.



Here are some write up taken from N1 Racing website.


Billion High Performance Fan 14" Pull Type (2670 CFM)


ARE YOU HEATING UP IN TRAFFIC OR BOILING OVER IN LINE WAITING TO GET INTO THE CAR SHOW? THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM CAUSED BY POOR AIR CIRCULATION THROUGH THE RADIATOR. THE OLD-TIME MECHANICAL ENGINE FANS ARE BECOMING A THING OF THE PAST BECAUSE THEY JUST CANNOT KEEP UP EVEN IF YOU HAVE THE BEST RADIATOR. ASIDE FROM ROBBING YOU OF GAS MILEAGE AND HORSEPOWER, THEY ARE ALSO DANGEROUS TO WORK AROUND. WHY ARE ELECTRIC FANS BETTER? WE FEEL THEY ARE BETTER BECAUSE OF TWO REASONS, IN COMPARISON WHEN AT IDLE A MECHANICAL FAN WILL BE TURNING APPROXIMATELY THE SAME RPM AS YOUR ENGINE (ABOUT 600RPM) MOVING ABOUT 600 CFM, AN ELECTRIC FAN ON THE OTHER HAND, AT IDLE WILL BE TURNING ABOUT TEN TIMES THAT MOVING APPROXIMATELY 2360CFM. THE OTHER MAIN REASON IS A ENGINE FAN WILL BE TURNING ALL THE TIME, EVEN AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS WHEN YOU DO NOT NEED IT. ONCE AGAIN THE ELECTRIC FAN , WHEN INSTALLED PROPERLY, WILL SHUT OFF AT DESIRED TEMPERATURES WHEN CONTROLLED BY A THERMOSTAT. WHY BUY BILLION FAN? ALL BILLION FANS ARE THE HIGHEST QUALITY AVAILABLE, AS AN O.E.M. FAN MANUFACTURE THE RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT ARE PASSED DOWN TO THE AFTER MARKET CONSUMER RESULTING IN A COMPLETELY BALANCED ASSEMBLY CONSTRUCTED OF FIBERGLASS IMPREGNATED NYLON TO GUARD AGAINST DISTORTION OR BREAKAGE.

I also found out from the mechanic that Evo has 2 radiator fan. Both would kicks in at 95 degrees Celsius.

The 2 fans are Pull (The fan inside the engine bay) and Push (The located outside, it's visible from the front of the car). The results can bee seen immediately. When the temperature hits 95 degrees and the fan kicks in, less than 30 seconds the temperature drops to 85 degrees. With this kind of results , it safe to say it's a worth it .



This how my stock radiator fan looks like.

The fan is about 6 years old and that is a very long time. I guess it was time for it to go.

Below is the results after installation.








Next upgrades would be radiator fan controller. This device allows me to adjust the setting for the radiator fan to kicks in. This would allow the engine to be cooler.

Damaged:

1). Billion Radiator fan ~ RM:750 (N1 Racing) Normal price : 800
2). Installation ~ RM: 80 (N1 Racing)